'I would go back for the sausages alone' Pip, Manchester

Whenever the English gather, the talk soon comes round to the best ‘full English’.

Along with the ubiquitous Sunday Roast, this collection of eggs, bacon, sausage and beans with various add-ons such as black pudding, mushrooms or hash browns (strictly American) has become a national obsession. A recent contribution to the debate, and fast shooting up the league table of destination plates, is Pip in Manchester.

Pip is the newly established restaurant attached to the Treehouse Hotel at the northern end of Deansgate. The latest creative project from chef Mary-Ellen McTague, Pip marks this chef of note’s return to the commercial sector (her amazing work at Eat Well MCR, which has delivered more than 100,000 meals to people in need, precedes her).

I was invited to test Pip’s full English contender for ‘Best Breakfast’ in the ongoing national debate. But I must declare a conflict of interest. I was born in Belfast and, like all Northern Irishmen and women, for me there is only one true champion of breakfasts: The Ulster Fry. It is a fulsome plate of eggs, bacon, fried potato bread, fried soda farls, and fried wheaten bread. It now comes with a health warning. I must confess that the full English will always come second.

Having admitted this, I can divulge that Mary-Ellen’s version is top notch and a damn sight healthier. I was treated to a plate of organic eggs (scrambled, my preference), the finest bacon from Littlewoods (the butcher), Swaledale sausages, and McTague’s own recipe baked beans. It was carefully arranged on the plate and was utterly delicious. Everything in the breakfast is locally sourced and sustainable, as is all the food at Pip. Croissants and a tasty homemade granola were also provided.

I haven’t tried all the purveyors of the national breakfast but I was mightily impressed with Pip’s version. I would happily go back for the sausages alone. Pip’s breakfast must be in contention for top of the ‘full English’ league.