Living in Manchester city centre affords glimpses into the habits of modern Britain.
On my daily shop to the local supermarket, I watch the lunch choices of office workers as they queue. Sandwich, crisps and a fizzy drink have become the midday meal of the masses. This makes me deeply sad as I am a gourmand. There, I’ve said it, I love food, good food, food glorious food. I especially love lunch. I love the ritual, the bonhomie, the conversations and the friendships forged over a leisurely hour or two à table. I admit I have the time (I’m retired) and (within reason) the money. Not every day, but a couple of times a month, satiates my addiction to lunchtimes. I don’t even need a companion, I am just as happy eating solo. Which brings me to the subject of this review, lunch at Stow.
Stow is a recent addition to Manchester’s growing culinary culture. The functional bar area leads to the back room restaurant. It is small, intimate and modernist with an open, charcoal-fired kitchen. You can sit at the chef’s table on a bar stool and observe the masters at work or at a table for the less curious. Wherever you perch, the space is comforting and friendly. It has the feel of a local European eatery, which is lucky for me as I live just around the corner.
I popped in last Friday for a spot of lone dining and I was not disappointed. The menu was short, with snacks, starters and small plates. There is a list of larger sharing plates of grilled meats and fish, and a dessert menu with, I’m glad to say, a list of well-chosen sweet wines. I’ve had their sumptuous Sauternes in the past and it is well worth waiting for.
My server Charlie talked me through the small plates and, at his suggestion, I plumped for the pollock crudo, courgette and red grape. They sat on a bed of luminous green pickle liquor. Charlie was spot on, it was a rare and glorious dish. The sliver of red grape gave the raw fish sweetness. A touch of true genius. It was followed by a signature dish of pearl barley and mussels laced with dill. Hearty and homely, I supported it with a plate of white beans and salsa verde for bulk and health. With two glasses of an excellent La Grande Courtade, my lunchtime fix was gratified for another week or so.
Stow is a great place and long may it flourish. Manchester needs all the wonderful lunch places it can sustain against the tide of the workhouse sandwich and crisp brigade. Even Spain, France and Italy are fighting to stave off the growing Americanisation of their tradition menú del día, prix fixe, and tavola calda.
For me, lunch is not only a privilege, it is a basic right and a beacon of human dignity. If there is a heaven, I imagine a large sign on the pearly gates that reads ‘OUT TO LUNCH’.
Words and images by Robert Hamilton
Stow
