Any writer of restaurant reviews will, as a matter of professional courtesy, read the competition. Weekend must-reads include Grace Dent, Marina O’Loughlin and Jay Rayner but I don’t bother with Giles Coren as I have it on good authority that he’s a pompous twit. Occasionally our worlds collide, but not very often as I don’t live in London or write for a national newspaper. Occasionally, when they leave London and come north, we have reviewed the same restaurants. Occasionally, we have even come to the same conclusions.

Last weekend I agreed to give Dishoom’s home-delivered Bacon Naan Roll kit a go. DHL kindly informed me that my kit would be delivered on Sunday morning between 10 and 11. I tuned into The Archers, opened The Observer and, eventually, after Stewart Lee and then Mariella Frostrup’s problem page, I turned to Jay Rayner. I discovered that Jay was Bacon Naan Roll kitfocusing on bespoke home cooking deliveries, mainly the Côte Brasserie chain and its Côte at Home brand. Eight paragraphs in he mentioned he was also sampling a Dishoom kit. There’s that critic collision again. He was in favour and concluded that “the good things to come out of this crisis are few, but a Dishoom bacon naan at home is one of them”. High praise indeed, though this from a man who declared he wasn’t going to give bad reviews anymore. Still, it was enough to make me anticipate my delivery like a Pavlovian dog.

Ding dong and there’s a box at my door inscribed with a portentous label: Dishoom Bacon Naan Roll Kit. Taking my pick, I opened the box (that’s one for all you TV historians out there). There is streaky bacon from Ramsay of Carluke, naan doughballs, cream cheese, coriander and a potent chilli jam. There are also the makings of a classic cup of masala chai. The instructions are clear and easy. I pop the bacon under the grill, roll out the dough ball into a flat naan shape and put it into a smoking frying pan. When the bottom is done, it also goes under the grill to puff up and finish off. With the chai Robert Hamiltonmade, I plate up. Bacon on naan and smothered in cream cheese, chilli jam and coriander. It is satisfyingly crunchy and smoky on the palate. The jam is hot and sweet so I add more as the dish goes down in record time.

This doorstep delivery is a true taste of Dishoom deliciousness and I am reminded how much I miss the place. The good people at Dishoom also ensure that, with each box purchased, they donate a meal to the Magic Breakfast charity which provides free meals to schools in the UK.

A sunny and satisfying Sunday has now turned into a dull and damp Monday. As I type this out, a final thought occurs to me. There are the fixings for another Dishoom Bacon Naan Roll in the fridge and I find myself agreeing with Jay again.

By Robert Hamilton

Main image by Charlie McKay. All other images by Robert Hamilton.