On a showery Saturday afternoon with the sound of thunder echoing in my ears, I set off to Manchester’s Red Bank to sample the Japanese sake bar and eatery, Suzume.
Suzume is the Japanese word for sparrow and the name of a new venture from team behind The Spärrows restaurant, just a few yards down the road. Kasia and Franco’s renowned European diner has become a firm favourite with foodies far and wide. I’ve been going since its small beginnings in Mirabel Street when it offered no more than ten covers. Later, the pair relocated to an empty railway arch on the near-forgotten Red Bank. Subsequently lauded in the national press and with their reputation guaranteed, they have expanded to another cavernous space.
Kasia is a connoisseur and long-time importer of sake, often making visits to Japan to source her product. Suzume is a temple to that knowledge. As a piece of architectural design, the space is astonishing. The roadside entrance opens into a fairly conventional and beautifully appointed dining area. Looking down over the balcony, the bar area on the car park side is where Suzume really comes into its own. The design is sometimes known as an ‘island counter’ or a ‘horseshoe bar’, allowing the bartender a three-sided access to thirsty customers. The pale wood, white walls and large windows exude classic Nipponese minimalist style flanked by an array of beautifully displayed sake bottles. It is one of the most stunning rooms in Manchester.
An early arrival, if not the first, I am greeted by Yuma with a welcoming glass of sparkling La Chamte sake. I quickly discover that Yuma is the font of all sake knowledge. The menu covers a sake pairing and Yuma provides an informative commentary on each glass. The menu is short, mainly Northern European and Italian as you would expect with Franco in the kitchen, though the offer of gyoza is there.
I start with the Brodo, comprising succulent pillows of beef and tuna wontons in a light broth flavoured with scallions and peanuts. It is paired with a Mansaku no Hana from the Hinomara brewery. Sake is stronger that western wines, flatter on the palate, but deeper in structure and longer in the finish. It goes well with the dumplings. My main is a fillet of sea bream on a bed of sautéed spinach. The fish is cooked to perfection, a crisp exterior with a soft and flavoursome interior. The suggested Koimari Junmai Ginjo sake is pale in colour but full of character with a citrus finish, an excellent accompaniment to the bream. For good measure, my Irish blood can’t resist a bowl of soft mashed potatoes. I am joined by general manager Rachael for a catch-up and dessert. She recommends the Semifreddo and a glass of sweet Hideyoshi Umeshu. It is a fulsome finish to a fantastic meal. 
Sake is not to everyone’s liking but I am a confirmed convert. For those wanting a taste, there is a pop-up stall at Manchester’s Campfield Market most Saturdays, but for those wishing the full experience I urge you to visit Suzume. Sit at the bar, take your time, let Yuma walk you through the joys of sake, and you too will be converted.
Words and images by Robert Hamilton
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