Escape to the country: The Coniston Hotel, Skipton

Sometimes life throws you an experience you didn’t know you needed, perhaps had never even thought about. An unexpected moment of joy that imprints itself on your memory, to be enjoyed at a later date when stillness is hard to come by.

And so it was I found myself lounging over the edge of an outdoor infinity pool, staring into the inky black of a Yorkshire night, barely able to discern the outline of nearby trees. This, I realised, was what I’d been missing – an evening sky, a sharp wind, and a warm tub with no one telling me to check my phone.

At The Coniston Hotel, Country Estate & Spa near Skipton, they are practised at relaxation. Although relatively new (it opened in 1998), it markets itself as something much older, catering for ordinary folk as well as shooting parties, anglers, and archers. Admittedly, the estate itself dates back to the early 20th century but the Bannister family, who took over in 1969, are the brains behind the current incarnation. If you’re from the area, you’ll know the Bannister name thanks to its network of Boundary Outlet stores and cafés, including Banny’s, a posh chippy with a drive-thru in Burnley (yes, a drive-thru chippy).

Before my stay at The Coniston, I was acutely familiar with what locals still refer to as Boundary Mill in Colne, and intimately acquainted with the Burnley chip shop. But I’d never heard of the Bannister estate, and wasn’t expecting a sprawling hotel and spa replete with forest walks and lakeside strolls. It characterises itself with the moniker ‘Walk In, Float Out’ and certainly goes some way to achieve that. The spa was an absolute delight, and the countryside aspect from my spacious (and delightful) room belied the fact that civilisation was just a short drive away. The main restaurant earned its name ‘The View’, and its afternoon tea, complete with melt-in-the-mouth Coniston trout and perfectly judged pickled cucumber, as well as Yorkshire tea cake adorned with whipped salted butter, was, to my mind, exceptionally good value (£30 per person).

The evening meal was less impressive with some elements overcooked, including the Brussels sprouts and the fish. The food took an age to arrive and, when it did, my order was wrong. The chef had made an earnest stab at a vegan menu (to be fair, this is a venue predicated on game and steak) but some dishes were inedible, all dry grains and beetroot lobbed in as if by accident. The cheese board augured well but was colder than my cat’s nose on a January morning. If you’re paying £18 for a cheese plate, it’s reasonable to expect it at room temperature.

The Coniston calls itself a country estate, and, technically, it is. But if you’re expecting oldey-worldey charm, you’ll be disappointed. On the other hand, if you’re after a rather lovely modern hotel with a superlative spa and a smashing afternoon tea, then look no further. They serve Yorkshire Tea, too. Reight good.

By Helen Nugent, Editor of Northern Soul