There’s a new kid on the block.
The meteoric rise of Skof has been a phenomenon in itself. Opened in May 2024, Tom Barnes’ new Manchester gaff has already won a slew of awards. It received a Michelin star within a year of opening and was named best restaurant in Britain by the AA Rosette Awards along with three rosettes. Getting a table there is the equivalent of seeing a unicorn. After many months of trying, I managed to book a lunch in late October (in July), though I must admit that was as much my technological incompetence as it was their system. As they say, all good things come to he who waits.
The wait, as they also say, was almost unbearable. The anticipation was palpable. Like a kid at Christmas, I woke far too early for my lunch date and arrived at the front door with Presbyterian timing (my mother always reminded me that cleanliness was not next to godliness, it was “punctuality”). My companion was even earlier and was already sat at table. We had opted for the standard lunch menu of four courses with the signature cup of beef broth to amuse the bouche.
Located on Federation Street near the NOMA basin, the restaurant is a beautiful space. Clean, modern and functional with few frills, it is my ideal interior. There is a generation of new eateries for the TikTok vibers – glitzy simulacra of real restaurants, instantly Instagramable, and instantly forgettable. As the Brunette put it, “all fur coat and no knickers”. But Skof exudes class.
We kick off with Isle of Mull cheese dumplings with Kuri squash and black garlic. The soft dumplings melted on the tongue and were tastefully balanced by the squash and garlic, and a light and chilled bottle of Vinho Verde was the perfect accompaniment for a lunchtime. Smoked Maran egg yolk with roasted cauliflower and BBQ kohlrabi in buttermilk followed, the firm yolk soaking up the smoky flavours of the vegetables softened by milky sauce. The main was a tender stuffed leg of duck with a bitter leaf salad and delicious chunks of seasonal beetroot. A plate of sophisticated thought and execution. Cooking at its finest.
We finished with a dessert of baked gingerbread, raw milk ice cream, quince and chestnut. It was a pudding with more than a hint of Halloween and a sweet end to an excellent meal. 
As well as giving Skof a deserved star, the Michelin Guide has added six new Manchester restaurants: Bangkok Diners Club, Stow, Climat, Winsome, Pip, and Cantaloupe have all been honoured, with the Guide now listing 18 eateries in the Greater Manchester area. Skof is an excellent addition to the growing culinary landscape of Manchester which can only enhance its reputation as a fine dining destination. Well worth the wait. I will negotiate the foibles of the booking system and go back in 2026 for the full tasting menu. Oh look, is that a unicorn?
Words and images by Robert Hamilton
(plus the Michelin star)
