Blink and there’s another new restaurant.
Manchester’s freshly acquired status as the fastest growing economy in Britain is mirrored in the ever-growing number of new eateries across the city (matched only by a smaller number of closures). One of the growth areas is Spinningfields, and one of the newest arrivals is Sticks’n’Sushi.
On the site of the short-lived, pop-up Oasis merch shop, Sticks’n’Sushi is a voluminous Japanese sushi restaurant so new that a good vet could make the tuna swim again. A matter of days after the grand opening, Helen, our Editor-in-Chief, and I take up residence to sample its wares.
What makes Sticks’n’Sushi unique is its Danish concern and concept. Launched in 1994 by brothers Jens and Kim Rahbek and their friend Thor Anderson in Copenhagen, it combines the Japanese love of freshness and modern efficiency with the Danish philosophy of hygge. Hygge is the Scandi culture of relaxed conviviality and comfort. With an ongoing Manchester downpour, the warm welcome from our waitress Emma shook off our weather blues and we were soon looking through the lavish menu. Beautifully produced and extensive, it took a good 15 minutes to take it all in before we made a series of balanced selections to cover its sheer breadth. Thankfully, there were selected choices for those of an indecisive nature wanting to experience a bit of everything.
We began with a small bottle of Mio Yunmai, a sparkling sake suggested by the ever-friendly Francesca, whose advice was exactingly spot on. Slightly stronger than your average glass of fizz but with a deeper flavour and a longer finish yet still light on the palate – Japanese umami and Danish hygge in a glass. We sampled a wide selection of tempura, shake-tataki, maguro and gyoza. The yellowfin tuna of the maguro melted in the mouth as did the salmon of the shake-tataki. The gyoza warmed the Mancunian chill and our tempura shrimp crunched away the blues. A bottle of French Picpoul, properly chilled and crisp, helped the medicine go down. 
Meanwhile, a plate of Kyoto non-stop, a mixture of nigiri, tofu with ginger and vegetables followed, ending with our mains: a small plate of Gindara no miso. Put simply, two sticks of exquisitely grilled black cod skewers. As full as we were, desserts of Matcha (chocolate fondue with vanilla ice cream) and Goma (vanilla crème brûlée) were ordered and swiftly eaten. Our new server, Anushka, always informative and engaging, suggested Akashi Tai Yuzushi sake with soda to perfectly wash down the delicious sweets. A fabulous end to a great meal.
Some two hours after we arrived, Helen and I left full and happy. Even the rain clouds had gone. Sticks’n’Sushi was a grand experience and worth a return to sample yet more umami and hygge.
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Sticks’n’Sushi
